Watches and Wonder Geneva 1 – 7 April 2025

Hi-light of Novelties 2025: these are the new released watches in the W&W 2025 which I found they’re caught my intention. They are alphabetically listed as follow:

Grand Seiko

The U.F.A. SLGB001 & SLGB003 as parts of EVOLUTION 9 Collection

Courtesy to Fratello
  • SLGB001 – Platinum case with Alligator Strap limited ONLY 80 pieces 
  • SLGB003 – High Intensity Titanium Case & Bracelet 
Courtesy to Hodinkee
  • Both of them have 37mm diameter by 11.4mm and 100m of water resistance 
  • Nice finishing / attention to detail/ Pretty dials (of course inspired by the nature near the Shinshu Watch Studio) 
  • This is “The most accurate watch in the world powered by a mainspring” 
  • GS released the VFA – Very Fine Adjusted movement in 1969 which was ±1 minute per month
  • 56 years later, the new 9RB2 Caliber – the Ultra Fine Accuracy (UFA) – is 36 times more accurate. 
Courtesy to Hodinkee
  • These UFA 37mm come with new accuracy record; ±20 seconds per year (yes, per year) and new bracelet with, for the first time, a micro adjustment 
  • This newly introduced three-step micro-adjust gives the new High-Intensity Titanium bracelet an extra 6mm of total flexibility. 
  • With a very compact caliber 30mm by 5.02mm size, the movement has a solid 72-hour power reserve (on par with modern watches these days)  
  • This might be a good sign for the near future that GS will apply this new movement to the other cases with more variations of their pretty dials
  • Also I hope that GS will apply the upcoming models with the new bracelet with micro adjustment 

Chopard

L.U.C. Quattro Spirit 25 Straw Marquetry Edition

L.U.C. = Louis-Ulysse Chopard; the founder of Chopard

  • L.U.C. Quattro Spirit 25 Straw Marquetry Edition ( is a new metier d’’arts model)
  • This watch with a verdant green dial features traditional straw marquetry applied in a supremely elegant and creative way.
    • Revolution Watch provides a very informative article on “Marquetry” techniques 
    • What makes this dial so special is that the straw marquetry artisan carefully selects rye straw grown in the French region of Burgundy and carefully dyed in a beautiful shade of green. Each strand is individually split with a fingernail, before being flattened with pliers. The straw is then cut into tiny hexagons using a scalpel, which are glued onto a base in ethical rose gold to form an interlocking pattern.
  • This is another iteration of L.U.C. Quattro Spirit 25 family
    • Previous one was released in W&W 2024 LE in white gold with a black enamel dial with ONLY 100 pieces
  • Same case diameter 40mm x 10.3mm thick with jumping hour (on a large display at six o’clock)
  • this model has ethical 18K rose gold case and Central gilded Dauphine fusée minutes hand
  • Movement is the L.U.C. 98-06-L; hand-wound ticks at 4 Hz and proudly carries the Hallmark of Geneva 
  • L.U.C. Quattro contains four barrels (double stacking) with massive power reserve of 192 hours (9 days)
  • ONLY 8 pieces limited edition

L.U.C. Quattro Mark IV Platinum & Rose gold

  • What I love about this watch are the case shape and the hands. Also the clean dial without the date window instead it combines analog date display with small seconds hand at six o’clock
  • The markers called “Herringbone-type hour-markers”
  • Dauphine fusée hours and minutes hands
  • Celebrates 25 years of Chopard Quattro technology after launch of the first L.U.C. Quattro timepiece in 2000 
  • 39mm x 10.4mm rose gold or platinum case adopts an updated L.U.C bassiné shape case; meaning its base is narrower than its domed, polished bezel.  
  • New Caliber 98.09-L 
  • Two sets of double-stacked barrels (1.885 meters of mainspring) delivering 9 days of chronometric precision
Two sets of double-stacked barrels beautifully arranged
  • Like its predecessor, the caliber features a “swan’s neck regulator” for fine adjustment and uses a “Phillips terminal curve hairspring” to optimize precision.
  • Platinum case with an sky-blue with frosted texture dial
The “Bee” Symbol between the lug
  • Rose gold case with a galvantic/galvanized deep blue with frosted textured dial

Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Platinum

  • The Alpine Eagle Collection debuted in 2019
  • The ultra thin L.U.C 96.42-L movement equipped with a 950 platinum micro-rotor. 4 Hz 65 Hours Power Reserve 
  • Two stacked barrels – Chopard Twin technology (but not Quattro which has 192 hours of power reserve) 
  • Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark
  • Bridges adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif
  • Annular balance / Swan’s-neck index-assembly / Balance-spring with Phillips terminal curve
  • CS = central seconds display
  • The dial is a very special shade of Ice-blue with the gradient and radiating pattern inspired by the iris of an eagle.
“Shade of Ice” Blue dial with Radiating Pattern
  • The bracelet has a design that can express the watch elegance and robustness at the same time
    • It’s a platinum bracelet featuring satin-brushed links with polished central caps, secured by a triple-folding clasp with safety pushers in platinum and blades in ethical white gold.
  • Another dressy integrated bracelet sport watch (Water Resistance of 100m) that I love and I put at the same level of RO, Nautilus, Oversea, 222, and so on.
One of the my most favourite bracelets & the “Bee” symbol
  • What so special about ‘Platinum’
    • Between 40% and 60% denser than gold
    • It’s highly resistant to corrosion and abrasion
    • Rare 30 times more so than gold
    • Exceptional durability so that it may be passed down through generations 
    • Its extraordinary qualities nonetheless require special skills and the use of specific tools to machine it.
    • It’s totally hypoallergenic metal and renowned for its unalterable lustre
  • Why ‘Bee’ symbol?
    • Since the time of Louis-Ulysse Chopard in the 19th century, this insect has been one of the emblems of the Manufacture. Industrious, honest and modest, the lynchpin of a cohesive whole held together by collaborative endeavours, it perfectly embodies the values with which the workshops have never ceased to identify.
    • All Chopard watches in Platinum case are having a signature ‘Bee’ symbol hand engraved on the case
    • From https://www.timekeepers.club/articles/novelties/chopard-alpine-eagle-41-xp-cs-platinum
  • Material is 950/1000 platinum
  • Diameter 41mm x 8mm tall

Cartier

CARTIER TANK À GUICHETS

  • This model is part of CARTIER PRIVÉ Collection 
  • Very surprised because I never thought Cartier would reissue this model. Original was released in 1928 and then Cartier reissued again in 1997 as 150th Anniversary (1847-1997) with only 150 pieces limited edition. 
    • The 150th Anniversary model has a crown at 3 o’clock which is different from the original where the crown at 12 o’clock
  • Then 28 years later…
  • Platinum with a Red numeral 
The “Red” numeral represents the Red cabochon for Platinum case
  • Yellow Gold with a Green numeral
See the green numeral?
  • Rose Gold with a Gray numeral 
  • Oblique : Limited Edition 200 pieces 
  • Jumping hour and dragging minute 
  • Calibre 9755 MC manual winding 42 Hours Power Reserve 
  • Dimension: 37mm lug-to-lug x 24.8mm width x 6mm tall 
  • Will be available in September 2025


Santos in small size close to vintage Galbee

  • I hope it has the same size as one of the small Cartier Santos Galbée ref.1564 which I wore once and really really loved that size
  • Cartier Santos Galbée ref.1564 
    • Dimension 41mm lug-to-lug x 29mm across
Cartier Santos Galbée ref.1564 from 2005
  • I’m very surprised why there is no coverage on this model. ONLY people taking about it but no dedicated contents about this model yet
  • It will be available in June 2025
  • There will be in 3 metals; Yellow Gold / Gold & Steel Two tone / Steel 
  • Dimension: 34.5mm lug-to-lug x 27mm across x 7mm tall 
  • It will come with a leather strap with pin buckle with a matched material 
  • A very down side is all of them have a “high autonomy” quartz movement 
  • No “easy link” but still have a quick release/switch system for the bracelet 
  • 3 bar of water resistance 

A. Lange & Söhne

1815 34mm

Courtesy to https://www.alange-soehne.com
  • From my love of Lange 1 but a bit of hesitation after discussed with watch friends and he mentioned about the maintenance and service of its complicated movement.
  • Also the size of current (modern) Lange 1 which is 38.5mm, I prefer a smaller size for the rounded and thin bezel watch like this.
  • Then I started to turn my interest to the “Saxonia” model which is less complication and more symmetrical dial.
  • Saxonia was first introduced in 1994 and over the 31 years they have a ranging sizes from 34mms to 40mms. (from langepedia.com)
  • The current Saxonia Collections; “Saxonia Thin 37mm”, “Saxonia Outsize Date 38.5mm”, and “Saxonia Moon Phase 40mm” have a ranging sizes from 37mms to 40mms.
  • My preference is 34-35mm which can only find in their vintage or discontinued model only.
  • Then this 1815 model surprisingly popped up in 2025 Watches & Wonder in a perfect size of 34mm and the thickness (or thinness) of 6.4mm 
  • It’s a time only with small seconds. Perfect Symmetrical dial!!
  • The reason that A.Lange can go with smaller size is because they’ve come up with the new caliber L152.1 [dia 28.1mm thickness 2.9mm 72 power res. 21,600 VpH]
Courtesy to https://www.alange-soehne.com
  • So simple / So elegant / So classy / So well balanced & proportions
  • No Steel case Only in White Gold or Rose Gold with a very handsome shade of dark blue
  • I saw many watch YouTubers “on wrist” shots and they are all look great on their wrist.

Odysseus HONEYGOLD Limited 100 pieces

Courtesy to https://www.hodinkee.com
  • Odysseus has been one of my favourite model from A.Lange with the same design language as the Zeitwerk.
  • With its signature “Outside Date” windows, Odysseus is different from Zeitwerk by Day & Date instead of Hours & Minutes 
Courtesy to https://www.hodinkee.com
  • Odysseus is a “Integrated Sport” Model from A.Lange
  • From my memory, the previous Odysseus were available in Steel, Titanium, and White Gold which give a cold tone and modern looking vibe
  • BUT this 18-carat “HONEYGOLD” case and bracelet give a special warm tone of the rose gold shade case and chocolate brown dial  
  • Most of the case and bracelet are brushed with polished on the smooth bezel and bevellings
  • It has a 40.5mm diameter 11.1mm thickness Movement L155.1 in 4 Hz Self-winding 50 hours reserve
  • Every time I look at it, I really like it
  • This is something that I know I have a very small chance to own this “super hard to get” watch BUT I still very admired it.

One Reply to “Watches and Wonder Geneva 1 – 7 April 2025”

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *